With a colloquial name like chicken riggies (short for rigatoni), this regionally famous pasta dish is the epitome of “if you know, you know.” But in case you don’t: It’s as if a creamy tomato vodka sauce had a spunkier cousin, boosted by the zing of pickled hot cherry peppers.
It’s an Italian American hybrid dish with origins in the “Littler” Italys of central and upstate New York. In the early 20th century, small Rust Belt cities like Utica and Rome were home to a large wave of immigrants who created new-age renditions of familiar dishes such as chicken riggies, Utica greens, and tomato pie in their homes and restaurants.
Today the pasta is a comforting regional favorite for serving at everything from festivals to funerals in the upper stretch of New York State. The obsession is real: At the annual Riggies Run in Utica, runners are challenged to stop mid-race and scarf down a serving.
This recipe sticks with a blend of fresh mini sweet peppers and jarred hot cherry peppers (look for jars labeled “hot cherry peppers” from brands like Cento, Mezzetta, B&G, or Jeff’s Garden; if sliced are unavailable, use whole and slice them yourself), but feel free to take after some upstate New Yorkers and add sautéed mushrooms or olives to the mix.