Paris has always been one of the world’s preeminent dining cities. It was the first to bring modern restaurants to life, birthing one of the most respected culinary repertoires in the world, and it is known across the globe for iconic dishes like boeuf bourguignon and steak frites.
But Paris is so much more than flaky croissants and perfect saucisse purée. It’s also a destination for an omakase featuring fresh pasta alongside tempura, Lao-style crispy shrimp, and tasting menus rooted in African flavors and traditions—all intersecting with the best French techniques and ingredients. All of this is as much the product of a long history of immigration as it is an emerging generation of chefs, bakers, and sommeliers who are expanding what French food can be through global flavors and forward-thinking styles.
These eight essential restaurants have their own bold points of view, but all play a role in shaping the current culinary landscape. Some are new, while some have a long history—but all prove how, after all these years, Paris remains the most compelling dining city of them all.
Lao Siam
Every table at Lao Siam needs pineapple fried rice, a couple of salads, spicy shrimp, and fried trout lacquered with a tamarind sauce.Photograph by Joann Pai
49 Rue de Belleville
Since 1985, Lao Siam is where Parisians in the know go for comforting Thai and Laotian cooking—and are more than happy to brave the line if they show up sans reservations. It’s now run by brothers Nicolas, Frédéric, and Alexandre Souk-Savanh, who took over the business from their parents. The dining rooms and lighting got a refresher, but the kitchen experienced the most significant change. The menu is now tighter and more focused, featuring pan-fried prawns swimming in a garlicky, spicy fish sauce; deep-fried trout with a punchy tamarind sauce and Thai basil; and crying tiger, a grilled beef brisket dish from northern Thailand served with a spicy house sauce.
Cheval d’Or
Chefs Luis Andrade and Hanz Gueco and sommeliers Nadim Smair and Crislaine Medina in front of Cheval d’Or.Photograph by Joann Pai
21 Rue de la Villette
That this restaurant exists in Belleville is hardly surprising, given the neighborhood’s robust Chinese community thriving there since the 1970s. But Cheval d’Or is unique. This long-standing Chinese restaurant has been reenergized by four industry friends—chefs Luis Andrade and Hanz Gueco along with wine pros Crislaine Medina and Nadim Smair—whose menu features clever twists on Chinese and French classics. Think Pithiviers stuffed with lamb, shiitakes, and Sichuan pepper; a croque madame layered with shrimp and chile oil; and fresh pasta tossed with saucy mapo tofu. Wash it all down with Medina’s vin selections, a wide-ranging lineup of natural wines from all over Europe that pair especially well with the flavorful dishes.
While you’re in Belleville:
Long known for its working class and immigrant roots (and bohemian flavor), this hillside neighborhood in the 19th arrondissement is worth lingering in.